On a cold January 4, 2017, Pia Flores was watching Go' Morgen Damark while visiting her homeland. After she saw the segment about two crazy people who wanted to cycle across America, she wrote to them: 'You must finally write when you come to Guatemala City, and I will give you a cup of coffee'. 

We were of course happy and replied thank you very much, but at that time Guatemala seemed incredibly far away. But wow and approx. 15,500km. later we were in Guatemala.

The coffee turned into five days with Pia, her Guatemalan husband Fernando and their adorable former street dog Betty. A fantastic meeting with super sweet and hospitable people, who gave us some truly unique experiences in Guatemala and great conversations. 

Pia is a trained anthropologist and now works for an independent newspaper as a journalist. Fernando is a trained psychologist and has his own practice. Both are knowledgeable, caring and giving people who fight for greater equality in society.

Pia and Fernando showed us their city. A city with about two million people, and which we previously only knew for its rough reputation. The city is divided into zones, and it is not just a geographical division of the city. They are also a predicate for where it is safe, dangerous, and where the rich and poor neighborhoods are. 'City of Contrasts' Pia referred to Guatemala City as, one of the first days.

The public cemetery is part of the city tour. Something completely different than when you enter a Danish cemetery. 'Even death is unequal in Guatemala' explained Pia. She showed us how there were huge, pompous mausoleums owned by the richest families, versus at the back of the cemetery, where the city's poorest people are buried in a kind of high-rise buildings with room for the coffins.

Ironically, it is at the back of the cemetery that is most interesting. Graves filled with flowers, memories, colors and people. A girl came by on a bicycle, a man was working on a grave and others were visiting with fresh flowers. Here too there is a division depending on whether you can afford to buy a plaque with the name of the deceased or whether it is a handwritten sign.

A huge cemetery that went on and on and on. Until we reached the slope where some of the graves had fallen down, and you shouldn't go too close to the edge. Where the landfill began. A huge landfill that reminded us of how much garbage we humans produce and confronted us with the great poverty that exists in Guatemala. Some live in the landfill, while others are frantically looking for something that can guarantee them their daily meal. 

We wouldn't have gone to the cemetery ourselves, but we're glad Pia took us there. Both because it was beautiful and because it was a different way to gain insight into society. 

Another place we wouldn't have found ourselves was the public washing area. A tradition that is found in fewer and fewer places in the city. We entered a courtyard with chattering ladies dressed in everything from traditional costumes to jeans and T-shirts. Everyone stood in a large circle around a basin of water and washed clothes. There were garlands hanging from the ceiling from Christmas and many of the women had decorated their washing area with flowers and other trinkets. 

The women welcomed us with smiles and curiously asked where we were from. Children were playing and clothes were hanging to dry depending on where the sun's rays hit or would hit soon. An insight into everyday life, a time capsule and a piece of history. Very nice place and a contrast to the fast-paced city. 

.

Pia and Fernando also gave us an insight into the Mayan culture much more vividly than we could have read about. The Mayan people had their heyday from about the year 0 to 900, but the Mayan culture has survived and is still a large part of Guatemala today. The traditions are maintained, there are 22 different Mayan groups, each with their own language, and it is one of the strongest Indian groups across the Americas. It is not always easy to be Mayan in a modern world. Their profession is closely linked to agriculture in the mountains, which can have difficult conditions, and they have been largely left out of political influence. 

The San Simon Temple in San Andres Itzapa is one of the places where the Mayans perform rituals and where the culture is strong and vibrant. 
There are two different myths about how Saint San Simon came to be. One myth is that he was a Catholic priest who was highly regarded by the population because he helped those in need. However, in the opinion of the church, he was a bit too fond of drinking and smoking cigarettes, so he was ostracized. San Simon therefore built his own church, which became more popular than the Catholic church. The Catholic power elite could not tolerate this, so the church was burned down. This only increased the goodwill towards San Simon, and he became a saint.

The second myth is less dramatic. It says it is a Spanish interpretation of the traveling Mayan shaman, Maximon. He had the same addiction to alcohol, but his many good deeds long ago outweighed his extravagant lifestyle.

Whether you believe in one myth or not, people go to the San Simon temple to pray, leave wishes on the wall, and be cleansed. Offerings often consist of alcohol, cigarettes, candles, but they can also be flowers, chicken, and other quirky things. 

The cleansing is done with a specific combination of herbs that are rubbed over the body, sometimes with an egg and booze blown over the body. And the face – but we only saw that done to a tourist. Otherwise, people smoke and drink to honor San Simon. There is something more bang on than in a Danish folk church.

.

.

Another place where Mayan culture is strong is in the market village of Chichicastenango, which is the stronghold of Mayan produced products, vegetables, fruit, beautiful Mayan costumes and fine woven fabric. Every Sunday there is a huge market, which Pia and Fernando took us to.

.

Chichicastenango is not just a market town. The city is known for holding out against the Spanish and Catholicism during their invasion in the 16th century. The Catholics therefore built their churches on top of the most sacred thing the Mayans had. The city's Sun and Moon Temples, which face each other. That wasn't enough to keep the Mayans from practicing their own faith. They performed rituals on the remains of the temple foundation outside the church. Then they went inside the church and attended the Catholic sermon, which was mandated by law.

Today, the religions have merged. The Mayans still perform rituals outside the church, where they burn a form of resin, but inside the church it is also a fantastic mix of both ordinary Catholic decoration and Mayan altars on the floor with candles, which they often place with a candle in each of the corners of the world and one in the center.

.

We were lucky enough to witness a change of brotherhood that looks after the church. Each brotherhood has a saint standing inside the church. A beautiful figure dressed in an embroidered cloak with fringes, feathers, colors, promptness and splendor. The change took place in full force with cannon fire and a procession through the city.

.

.

In Chichicastenango we also visited the cemetery, which is located fantastically on a small hilltop with a view of nature on one side and the city on the other. It was very special to step into the cemetery. A wealth of colors, magical calm and peace of mind in a relaxed way. Here you can also clearly see how the Mayan religion and Catholicism have mixed together over time.  

It is allowed to walk between the graves and there are altars to perform Mayan rituals. A mixture of crosses and mausoleums, but painted in colors that originate from the Mayan culture. The color is given to the grave site according to the day the person died, which makes the cemetery look like a large colorful bouquet of flowers. A very beautiful one of a kind. It is incredible what colors can do to a place that is otherwise associated with great sorrow.

.

.

In Denmark we also have class differences, but it can in no way be compared to Guatemala. From people dying of hunger to people flying to Miami in private planes to shop at the weekend. The eight richest families can be traced back a long way, and they have since maintained power economically and politically. It is the extreme difference between rich and poor and no possibility of mobility for a large part of the population that helps to create the high rate of crime. There are many who see no other options and have nothing to lose. It has worked this way for generations, which has changed the view of life and death, and what a life is worth.

Corruption at all levels, extortion and protection money collected by gangs, terrible poverty, undemocratic politics, and the presence of an armed guard everywhere are everyday things in Guatemala. There is a part of the population that fights against the system, but it can be a life-threatening and exhausting effort. The feeling of repeatedly running head-on against a political system that closes in on itself and protects each other.

It makes us think once again about how lucky we are in Denmark. Or maybe it's not luck, but because of ancestors who fought for democracy and a welfare system. The Constitution in 1849, which was the first step away from autocracy and towards a trust-based society led by Grundtvig. The cooperative movement, the struggle of the trade unions, the early equality, representative democracy where everyone has a voice, and most importantly, that corruption is not part of everyday life.

Everyone will never have the same, but we must hold on to the desire to create welfare and a dignified life for everyone. By reducing inequality, we also reduce a large part of the problems that come with it, such as crime. There is a tendency for us to take for granted that Denmark has a welfare system. This is dangerous, because it is a society that has been worked and fought for, and we must continue to work for it if we want to keep it.

If Guatemala is not already on your top five travel list, then hurry up and get it written on it. It is a beautiful and exciting country, where we have only met nice people. A country with a great cultural heritage, and a great contrast from the indigenous people and their traditions to modern Guatemala. It has been really interesting to get a deeper insight into Guatemala and the Mayan culture. Big thanks to Pia and Fernando! 

It has also made us want to learn more about our own ancestors. So it will be at the Viking Museum when we get home. It's incredible that you have to go so far away to find out how exciting your own heritage and culture is.

.