After spending over four months in Chile and Argentina, we drove over the border to Bolivia on May 31st. It's interesting how a border on a map can mean so much. A different culture, people and norms.

We have now been in Bolivia for 12 days and we already love the country. The Bolivians are super nice and here on the altiplano very polite. They shake hands to a much greater extent, and they ask with interest where we come from and where we are going. 

We have already experienced a lot; crossed into the highlands at 3600 meters from Chile, several passes above 4000 meters, slept at the grocery store, slept in the doctor's clinic garage and in an abandoned building that we believe is a llama slaughterhouse. We have eaten at amazing markets. The food is exciting with many small stalls selling everything from a hot meal to juice, fruit and pancakes. And it's cheap. Really cheap - and that's something a few hungry cyclists are excited about. 

There is so much to tell and so much we would like to share with you, but one experience in particular has made a huge impression on us.

Already after crossing the border into Bolivia on the way to the city of San Juan, we got a taste of the salt soil and the Salar de Uyuni. The world's largest salt desert. One of the natural phenomena we were most looking forward to on the trip.

We could make out the Salar de Uyuni in the distance and we were very tempted to turn left and drive straight out there. It's right there...but we knew it was a long way away. 

We had the front wheels pointed towards the town of Uyuni to raise money. It was good we stuck to that plan. Otherwise we would never have met Lucia, Seb and Jonah. Two Australians and one German on a bicycle. We met them quite by chance where two roads met. That in itself is pretty amazing. When it turned out we were going the same way, we might as well be followed. It turned into a cold but fantastic wildcamp evening with robber stories, café cognac, a couple of nice cycling days, and we hung out in Uyuni together. We just happened to meet them again in the city of Potosi and will also see them again in the capital Sucre. It's a small world - very beautiful. 

After withdrawing money and refueling the body with food in Uyuni, it was finally time to set course for the salt desert. This time we turned left towards the salar along a dry riverbed instead of taking the official road out there. Ahhhh that's why we have the big wheels. 
It was absolutely fantastic and surreal to see the ground change from sand to a mixture of sand and salt to finally drive out onto the huge white flat. The sound of the crunching surface sounds like a frosty day. That is, until it became salt water instead of the salt desert. And so soft, we couldn't drive on the surface, but had to walk a few kilometers. But we didn't turn around like we could see some cars had done. 

It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining, and the course was set for the island of Incahuasi, which is an island in the middle of the salar with cacti and a cafe. Roads are drawn on the map, but one road is two ruts, and the many jeeps are crossing each other. So it turned into navigating by compass instead. 

Several times we had seen small dots in the distance and thought - is that a bicycle? But because distances are deceiving, it was just a car. Until we saw a dot in the horizon, which came closer. It was a bike! We only had to look at each other to change course and turn left to drive over to the person. And so did the silhouette in the distance. We met in the middle of our two routes. 

It was Israel. In the middle of a salt desert. What are the odds of that?

Israel is from Brazil and he is on his way around the world by bicycle. He has also spent the last months in Chile and Argentina. We quickly struck up a conversation. It was simply so nice that we decided to camp together. Although Israel was actually heading towards the town of Colchani, and we were heading towards Incahuasi. 

Generally, when we wild camp, we look for the best place, preferably sheltered, possibly shade and a flat place. Here we just put the bikes down where we were. It was absolutely perfect. 

We set up a tent, made coffee and talked. About everything possible. First about gear (cyclists can really spend a lot of time talking about that), but then also about why we went on our journey and what it means to us. What we have learned along the way and what we want to take home with us. Robustness and gratitude. About changing the way we live and how we stick to it when the cycling adventure is over. How we try to store all the amazing experiences in our brains and in our hearts. 

The sun began to set on the horizon. The jeeps and tourist groups were gone. It was completely quiet and not a soul to be seen for miles around. Even the wind had died down. It was magical. The sky changed color – red, orange, pink. There were a few clouds, which made the light even more beautiful. All three of us stood with our mouths open, pointing and spinning around ourselves to take it all in. 360 degree sunset in the middle of a salt desert. It's a sunset we'll never forget. The most beautiful we have seen so far. 

Israel is a photographer, so pictures were taken. Many pictures. Amazing pictures. A passion we share, so we got nerdy. Lovely. 

The sun disappeared on the horizon and we made dinner. Israel said: 'I have pasta, sauce and spices'. We had vegetables, beans and parmesan. As the most natural thing, we made a joint meal from the things we had. Food just tastes better when shared. 
Darkness had really fallen, and Israel set the camera to 30 seconds. opening hours. It resulted in some really nice pictures and some really funny ones where we wrote with the headlamp. 

 

It was difficult to crawl into the sleeping bag, because the evening was so enchanting. We would prefer it to continue. And it did the next morning, when we woke up to the sun over the white plain. 

We ate breakfast together, drank more coffee, said goodbye and went our separate ways. We hope we will have the opportunity to cycle together in Bolivia again and otherwise meet in Copenhagen when Israel comes to Scandinavia on its world tour. 
It was a short meeting, but a meeting and a nature experience that made a big impression on us. The essence of what this journey means to us. Turning from our own path to meet another human being with whom we share a unique experience. Live in the present and be present. Quite simply. An experience that we store in our brains and in our hearts.