We have been really looking forward to Peru. The country with the beautiful high mountains and impressive passes. Where cycling form will be challenged and the eyes will be at work overtime in the beautiful nature. Ride higher than we've ever been before and ride some of the most famous bikepacking routes. Something that we've been looking forward to and top five places we've been looking forward to the most on the trip.
After approx. a week in Peru we came to the mountain Ausangate – a paradise for bikepacking. We decided to drive around the mountain in order to connect in this way two of the great bikepacking routes in Peru. At the same time, we could make the route as a loop, so that we could leave some luggage and travel with less weight.
Ausangate is majestic with its white-clad cape and its 6384 meters. It is the fifth highest mountain in Peru, part of the Vilcanota mountain range and combines beautiful nature with Peruvian culture and history. According to the Incas, the mountain is an Apu, a mountain god, and because of its height the most sacred in the area.
Legend has it that llamas, alpacas and vicunas came out of the mountain as a gift to the people who live on and around the mountain. The gift was given so that the people could live on the meat and keep warm with the wool. The mountain is still the reason for life in the area, as the ice slowly melts from Ausangate (and the surrounding) mountains, which provides water and thus life to the towns around.
The tracks we were going out on were used by the Incas as a pilgrimage with the aim of asking the mountain for advice on problems they could not find answers to themselves. At the same time, they brought offerings to the mountain with the wish that it would give them a good future.
Our expectations were sky high when we started climbing approx. 40 km. and 900 meters of altitude up to Ausangate from the town of Checacupe. And we were not disappointed. The ride up to Ausangate was fantastic. The road wound along a narrow gravel road. Huge canyons, small towns along the way and it was the first time we saw the famous Peruvian terraces.
We could make out Ausangate in the distance – now was now. It really is an impressive mountain. We stopped for lunch and Kenneth looked thoughtful. On the way up, Kenneth had had some problems with the gears, and he discovered that the cassette was loose. He was nervous it was the rear hub it was crazy about so we decided to turn around. A bit disappointed. But it was the right decision, because Kenneth was right – the hub was damaged.
Good advice was expensive when riding a special size hub, but luckily we were put in touch with a 'Magic Man' in Cusco who could fix it. Us on the bus to Cusco, and the next day we were again ready to drive Ausangate.
When we got back to where we left off a few days before, we were happy and excited. We continued upwards and away from the dirt road onto a single track. After driving for a few hours, a local lady met us. She charged 10 soles (20 DKK) per man to cycle here. We must have looked like a big question mark because it wasn't exactly what we expected. We have read several accounts from the place, and had never heard of having to pay. Ausangate is not a national park and there are no facilities. When we asked her what we should pay for, the argument was that the other tourists were also paying. We argued that those we have heard of do not pay, and that there were neither signs nor facilities that warranted payment. We had dreamed of this desolate beautiful track and then there was a lady charging what we define as "gringo money". So she didn't get any money and we drove on.
The road twisted and continued up up up. It was very beautiful with high white peaks, blue mountains and red mountains. It was hard not to look back all the time. The air got thinner and thinner and we had to get off and pull up the steep path. The last bit before the summit we had to go through a bit of snow, which was very handy, because then we had water.
We reached the top and what a view! It was magical. A multitude of colours, mountains as far as the eye could see and a sign with 5200 metres. The highest we have been so far. When we stood there at the top we could really understand, nature was God for the Incas.
After enjoying the view we started the most fun downhill. There were several tracks, so we had to choose a line ourselves. It was not so technical, but on the other hand super flow and with many delicious switchbacks. Just what we were looking forward to! When we came down we had to cross a small river by jumping over some rocks and through a marshy area before it started to go up again. Just the way we like it.
The plan was to find a secluded place to camp, but when we saw some other tents by a house we thought it might be nice to have company. It turned out to be an American couple and three Italians on a guided tour. We asked if it was free to camp and they said yes. The reality was different. The next morning an elderly gentleman stood and charged 10 soles. We again looked like a big question mark. He began to explain, the house was a lodge and we had to pay to camp on the grounds. There were no signs, no toilets and the house was locked. The only thing was two outdoor taps where we could get water. We were quite principled and could not understand what we had to pay for. He picked up the guide and began to explain, it was for cleaning and protecting the bikes. We definitely didn't agree, but we ended up paying.
Fortunately, the day was just as beautiful as the previous one. The landscape changed character with a view of three towering snow-capped mountains, and we started climbing again towards the 5000 meters. We had to push the bikes off the last stretch, but we were looking forward to what lay ahead. Another fun downhill, a bit more technical, which was absolutely perfect. Especially with the unique view that ended at a huge beautiful blue lagoon.
The people on the mountain still live by raising llamas and alpacas and on the way we passed the traditional small farms. The animals walk freely on the mountains, which is liberating and wonderful to experience. It is fun to see their tracks across the steepest places. They really are some cute and whimsical animals. We ended up in no man's land when we lost track for a while. He was not satisfied with that, so we were guided around. It gave rise to some kilometers of experience when we thought; "We're just taking a short cut". This meant up and down steep slopes and finally across a river via a staircase on a waterworks.
It was getting dark and it was time to find shelter for the night. We had hoped we could reach the lagoons, but that had to wait until the next day. We found a flat spot and quickly set up the tent. When the sun goes down it gets really cold, so we rushed into the tent and into the sleeping bags. The food was prepared in advance, so we didn't have to bring the gas burner. That meant another evening of cold pasta, lentils, vegetables and eggs. Not that bad at all.
During the night, Kenneth woke up when he heard someone outside. He stood up and said 'Buenos noches' to the man, who was no longer friendly. He shined a light on Kenneth and would not turn it off. The person continued up the steep path, turning several times and shining a light on the tent. Very mysterious, but it could be a guy who was out for a night walk. The next day we discovered the person had been in our bags on the bikes. Kenneth's hat and gloves were on the ground, his bicycle helmet had been taken off and Marie's bicycle gloves were also gone. We had read about thefts on the route and were upset that we hadn't taken everything into the tent at night, but it seemed so peaceful. Luckily it was just a helmet and a pair of gloves.
Far worse was a guy we met an hour later. He hiked alone and had also been visited by the man at night. The thief had cut open the tent with a knife and taken binoculars. When the guy woke up, the thief had hit him on the head and, as we know, stood on a hill a little way from there and shined a torch on the tent. In the seven months we have been traveling we have felt safe and then this happened in the most beautiful nature in the middle of nowhere. Perhaps it was because we had not made an offering to the mountain.
A little shaken and puzzled, we continued down to several blue lagoons. With eyes wide open to take it all in. We met a family at a lagoon, we were going around and for some reason we didn't look at the map but chose the wrong way around. This meant that we had to carry the bikes over large stones and only too late did we find out that there was a path on the other side. We had to climb a steep rock slope to get back to the path. But there is nothing that is not so bad that it is not good for something. We cycled into a huge herd of llamas and a woman with the most beautiful square hat who looked after the llamas and made yarn at the same time.
We would have cycled past the beautiful Rainbow Mountain on the way back, but Kenneth could hear that the rear hub was not quite right again, just as the rear brake was also smoked, so we decided to drive straight back to Checacupe. In Checacupe we recognized that we had to take the bikes on a bus to Cusco, instead of cycling the 100km road. We were sure that the rear hub was so bad that it could cause a lot of problems. And sure enough, when we took the hub apart at the bicycle smith in Cusco, it turned out that the axle itself was broken in the middle. Our "Magic-man", who had made it earlier and assured us that it would last forever, had therefore only made it last for a good three days.
Around Ausangate, three days were above 4000 meters and several times around the 5000 meters. It was challenging, impressive, unique scenery and fun singletrack. We had to pinch ourselves several times to prove to ourselves that it was real. It was steep and we had to pull several times. And it was super cold at night. But it was worth it. The only thing that bothers us a little is that we felt that the people on the mountain had a big focus on 'gringo money' and the experience of the theft. But on the other hand, we can also understand that the mountain people want their beautiful mountain in peace.
We were confirmed once again, we love our bikes. And we are looking forward to even more mountains and much more bikepacking in northern Peru.
