After ten days in Swakopmund with delicious food, good coffee, reunions with travel buddies and meeting new friends, we are ready to cycle south in Namibia again. This time we have approx. 1200km of gravel road ahead of us. Technically the route is easier, but there is still a long way between water and supplies. It is clearly also the most touristy area we have cycled in, but that is understandable, as the area hides some of the most amazing natural phenomena on the trip. 

D707 – famous and infamous

The D707 gravel road is called 'Namibia's most iconic gravel road'. So of course we had to cycle on it. It's a real pleasure with lots of washboard. We still have about 10 liters of water each on the bike, as there are 140km to the next water station. The combination of the dry wind hitting us in the face and the sun grilling us makes us feel a bit like the biltong we carry in our bags as snacks. Biltong is dried meat and a Namibian delicacy. 

The roads have changed since we cycled from Swakopmund, about in the middle of Namibia. From the winding small four-wheel drive roads, we now cycle on larger gravel roads, which are filled with washboards. They are not technically difficult and therefore fun, but they are not easy either. They are just annoying. We have to constantly concentrate on the road and find a good track to cycle on. So there is not the same time to scout out the beautiful landscape. Fortunately, we can stop and enjoy the landscape, which we do, but we also have to move forward. 

The D707 winds through mountainous landscapes in beautiful colors and with long straight roads, where we cycle and cycle and don't quite feel like we're getting anywhere until we look back. The speed actually slows down a bit when the wind starts to pick up in the wrong direction. We struggle with it. Against the headwind, while the wheels crackle in the sand. We know that there will be a small café where we can get water, coffee, cake and a rest. That's our goal, and we pedal harder. 

We spot the 'cafe' sign and right after there is a nice old caravan with an open door. In front of the caravan there is decorative garden furniture decorated with plants, art and gizmos. It looks very inviting and cozy. We sit down on the chairs and MP comes out of the caravan. The first thing he asks is if we want coffee. Yes please, we both say in unison. He also asks if we want food. Yes please, we say again in unison. Delicious homemade bread with home-smoked meat, cheese, home-pickled potatoes and jam. MP says that it is usually his mother who prepares the food, but it all looks very delicious and beautifully prepared. And it tastes heavenly. We couldn't get bread in the last small town, so it was pasta with beans for lunch. We also eat cake, and an extra piece of bread. MP laughs at us for eating so much. 

We want to see the old diamond town of Kolmanskop, and we ask MP if he knows of a bus from the next small town, which is 60km away? Kolmanskop is on a main road that goes to the coast. It is only possible to cycle the same way in and out again, so we would like to avoid cycling to Kolmanskop. Especially since a cyclist was killed in a traffic accident on the road last year. The main roads in Namibia are really fast. MP smiles at the question of a bus. There is not much public transport. On the other hand, he and a friend are going to the town of Lüderitz the next day, and they can drop us off in Kolmanskop and take us back again. We smile from ear to ear. It is simply so sweet of MP, and we end up pitching the tent in their garage, sheltered from the wind. Next to beautiful old Land Rovers and a Ford Granada. We also meet MP's mother, Sonja, who is a fantastic older woman with speed. The body is a bit challenged, but what the body lacks in strength, the brain, heart and mood have. 

The next day, when we return from Kolmanskop, the wind has picked up, and it is clear that we will not get far if we start cycling. Sonja and MP ask if we want to stay, and again we say a big yes in unison. 

We travel to meet the locals, but in Namibia it has been more difficult than in other countries. There is more tourism and far between the cities. In addition, there are only about 3 million people living in this huge country, which is three times the size of the UK. We have also cycled in the most desolate areas of the country to experience the great nature. At the same time, many farms are fenced in and with a large padlock on the gate to the farm. In general, we have seen many more fences in southern Namibia. 

MP and Sonja are super sweet, and it's exciting to learn about their life in the Namibe desert. The oldest desert in the world. MP is the third generation on the farm. His father also lives on the farm, but in his own stone house a few kilometers from the main house. He has done so for the last 30 years. It was MP's grandfather who got the land and founded the farm. A huge area of 70,000 hectares. MP did not know how his grandfather got the land. They had come from South Africa and settled in Namibia. 

They make a living by raising cows, goats, pigs and chickens. But it is no longer easy. We can see that there was money once. In the garage are nice old cars. A light blue old Land Rover with round headlights. Another newer Land Rover and other nice cars. A large house and outbuildings. There is a drilling machine to drill for water. Namibe is one of the driest deserts in the world, and the drought is the worst it has been in as long as they can remember. There has been a drought for 8 years. The water level is falling and falling. The grass for the animals on the large areas is disappearing, the fruit trees have died, and where there was once grass, there is now sand. It is then difficult to farm.

Every day the shepherd takes the animals up into the mountains to find food for them. Many have sold their farm or the bank has taken it. Their nearest neighbor is about 20km away. The nearest small town is 60km away, and when they go shopping they drive 192km. Many young people are leaving the area, and MP and his best friend, who lives 110km away, are the only young people left in the area. These are completely different distances and growing conditions than we are used to in Denmark.

It also means that they can do everything themselves. They are used to taking care of themselves. They make home-smoked bacon, shoot game and make soap from the fat from the animals. Sonja pickles and bakes. Nothing goes to waste. It is very inspiring, and it is fantastic to see Sonja's production of home-pickled, stewed and dried ingredients. Even the leaves from the beetroot can be used. She also makes her own 'antibiotics' and medicine for colds. We make onion pie with Sonja, among other things, and Marie gets a few good recipes along the way. When you are so far from everything, you both have to and are used to taking care of yourself. Then you are also prepared if the world stops making. They are concerned about the development in South Africa and how it will affect Namibia.

MP loves guns like we love bikes. It's a passion and a hobby. In Namibia you can have four guns, but when the law was made, you couldn't take guns from people, so MP's father has many more guns. MP makes his own bullets, because buying ammunition is an expensive pleasure, and why buy it when you can make it yourself. Kenneth takes them out into the mountains, and they shoot at targets before picking up the shepherd after the day's work. They have two employees on the farm who help them with the daily operations. They live on the farm with their families. Since ancient times, it has been a legal requirement that they have a small farm shop on the farm, which the employees can buy from. This is then deducted from their salary every month. 

We stay another day. The storm is still raging and the weather forecast is flashing red. MP and Sonja ask if we want to stay another day. We would love to, because we are having a really nice time with MP and Sonja. MP makes us oryx meat in the evening with pumpkin, onion, garlic, cream and butter. MP jokes about whether we are still hungry, and we have to admit that we can't eat anymore after the delicious dinner.

We see the world from where we live, but the world is big and diverse, and there are so many different ways to live. We are grateful that Sonja and MP shared their lives with us for a while. It is therefore also very difficult to say goodbye and continue on the bike. We have made new friends, and they will forever have a place in our hearts. 

Kolmanskop – diamond fever

In 1908, Namibia was colonized by the Germans, who were building a railway to the port city of Lüderitz. One of the workers brought a shiny little stone to his German superior, and that was the start of a wild diamond rush in the area. Rumor has it that they were initially able to pick up diamonds from the surface of the sand as they sparkled in the moonlight. 

The amount of diamonds meant an enormous wealth, which the Germans used to build an impressive city in the middle of the desert for 300 people plus their children. There was a shopping street with a grocer, baker, butcher and ice cream factory. Not the kind of ice cream that we eat for dessert, but ice cream for their refrigerator. It was made by taking a large tub of salt water, in which they had molds of fresh water. The water was then frozen with ammonia around the outer tub. Each family received a block of ice every morning, which they placed at the top of a cupboard to keep their food fresh. As the ice melted during the day, it was collected under the cupboard so that the water could be used again. Along with the block of ice, each family was supplied with 20 liters of fresh water. The water was transported by boat all the way from South Africa and by rail from the port city, so it was an expensive affair. But fresh water had not yet been found in the area. Right next to the ice cream factory was the butcher's shop, so the cold could be used to keep the cold room cold.

The families didn't want to be bored out in the desert, so a Casino was built, where they had entertainment shows and showed films. There was also of course a bowling alley, and it still looks as good as it did then. The children got a swimming pool, and the women didn't want to walk in the sand, so they built a little tram that they could drive the few meters down to the shopping street.

It is also in Kolmanskop that the first X-ray machine in Africa was introduced. Its primary purpose, however, was to check whether the workers had swallowed a diamond or two. This happened occasionally, and then they were put in a toilet with a built-in filter and given laxatives. Then they smoked in the slush. In total, there were 800 local workers who collected diamonds. The workers were primarily Ovambo from northern Namibia, as they were bigger and stronger than the Nama people nearby. They lived in an area apart, without the same luxuries as the Germans. So the story is unfortunately the same here, as in so many other countries in Africa. 

They say diamonds last forever, but not when you have to find them. In the 1920s, there were fewer diamonds to be found and other areas became more valuable in the diamond hunt. The last residents moved out of the town in 1953, when the hospital closed and the town no longer had fresh water. So the luxury town of Kolmanskop only existed for 50 years.

The town now stands as a ghost town, where the sand is quietly invading the beautiful old houses. It is possible to go inside most of the houses, and it is exciting to see how they are decorated. The rooms are beautiful, and the walls are beautifully painted. The floors consist of thick planks, and the stairs to the second floor are still standing solid. No doubt that they are built with the best materials. Although the town is located in a sandy desert, the Germans imported sand to build the houses from, as there is too much salt in the sand in the area. The windows are large and beautiful, and it is easy to see that there was no shortage of money. It is impressive to see how many engineering feats have been made to make the town function as it did. 

After Kolmanskop, the diamond industry moved to Oranjemund, which was closed to the public until 2014. Diamonds are still mined in the sea off the coast, and for the same reason the beaches are therefore closed to the public. 

The geological wonders of Namibia

Soussuvlei and Deadvlei

In Africa's largest conservation area, the Namib-Naukluft National Park, which is 50,000km2 large, lies Sossuvlei. A huge area with high red sand dunes formed over millions of years. The highest sand dune is 325 meters high and is called 'Big Daddy'. Of course we had to climb it, and it was fantastic to get a view of the area when we reached the top. So much sand, and as Kenneth said when we sat on top of the sand dune: 'It's impressive to think about how many grains of sand it takes for us to sit on top of a sand dune'. It's true. 

From the top of Big Daddy we can look out over Deadvlei, which is a dried-up clay area formed when the Tsauchab River overflowed. Because of the water, trees began to grow in the place. When the sand dunes blocked the river, the area dried out along with the trees. It is estimated that the trees are 900 years old and have not decomposed due to the dry climate. It is almost surreal to stand on top of a large sand dune and look down on the white salt flat with black trees.

We ran down the side of the sand dune, which is really fun. We can get quite fast and it's almost like running in powder snow. When we get to the end of Deadvlei, we step from the orange loose sand onto a rock-hard clay bottom, and the white color almost hurts your eyes. As we move to the other end of the valley, it's almost like stepping into a painting with the white bottom, orange sand in the background, a blue sky and black trees. We understand why many photographers think this place is paradise. 

Fish River Canyon

Another natural wonder that we have been looking forward to visiting is Fish River Canyon. The gigantic gorge was created over millions of years. It is approximately 161km long, 27km wide and up to 500 meters deep. Depending on how you count it, it is the second largest after the Grand Canyon in the USA.

It is again one of those natural phenomena where you have to polish your glasses a second time and pinch yourself to understand that it is real and not a computer-generated image from space. There are so many nuances, shapes and details that we can spend a whole day looking at the gorge from the different vantage points. There is also a hiking trail that goes 80km through the gorge and takes approx. 5 days to complete. The trail is closed at this time of year, as it is too hot. We get a sweat on our forehead just thinking about how hot it must be down in the gorge with the scorching sun. It would otherwise be a fantastic experience to hike through it and become part of life in the gorge. 

A hot bath

The day before yesterday we celebrated Marie's 'birthday'. We were in Cameroon in the middle of nowhere in June and we couldn't even find cake on the day. These are serious first world problems. So we agreed to postpone the birthday.

The birthday starts with us fishing the bikes out of the bathroom at a campsite. In the dead of night in the tent, Marie heard a sound. A new sound. It's usually a jackal or maybe the hooves of an Oryx. The sound came from the bikes, and that's never a good sign. Marie wakes Kenneth, who is sleeping with the tent opening facing the bikes. He quickly opens the tent cloth and lights the bikes. A huge porcupine - with emphasis on huge - is about to break into Marie's small side bag with its sharp claws. It has managed to scratch the strap and make a hole in the bag. The only thing in the bag is an unopened loaf of bread wrapped in plastic from the manufacturer. The porcupine doesn't see very well, but it has a phenomenal sense of smell. Really impressive that it could smell the bread. We are equally impressed by the sight of the porcupine and honest that it has destroyed the bag. It comes back a little later, as expected, so we end up hiding the bikes inside the bathroom behind a closed door overnight.

We are often asked if we have had any encounters with wild animals, and we always laugh as we answer: 'Only at campsites.' Last time, however, it was a dog that stole our food, so it can't really be classified as wild animals. 

After a short day on the bikes, we change the tent and check into a lodge. Here we are shown down to a lovely cabin, which is built into the mountains and has a view of the desert. The style is complete and also inside the cabin it is built up and around the stones. We get the best shower with hot water, delicious products, and we can dry ourselves in big, nice towels. Marie enjoys every minute with fragrant shampoo, conditioner and body lotion. The bed is lovely and the pillow is perfect. 

A bonus of cycling for so long is that we really appreciate a good bath, which we may well take for granted when we are home. But there is really nothing better than standing under the shower, turning on the hot water and rinsing off the dust. The pampering continues with a three-course dinner and a bottle of wine. There is a variety of game on the menu; springbok and oryx. They eat a lot of game in Namibia, and it is delicious meat, as the animals roam freely in nature. The best thing is that there are more than two ingredients on our plate, and it is also a colorful orgy with different vegetables. We usually eat quite simply on the bikes. Both to ride as lightly as possible, and to keep the food warm. Tomorrow we will again sit on the ground and eat from the pot in front of our tent in a small Canyon. We love that, but it is also nice to have an evening of pampering. Contrasts are fantastic and highlight the best of both. 

Thanks for this time, Namibia 

Southern Namibia is impressive with its beautiful landscapes that continue endlessly on the deserted country roads. There is no doubt about the power of nature. How eight years of drought can turn people's lives upside down, and we see with our own eyes how water equals life.

We have been in Namibia for about six weeks and enjoy the great nature every day and being able to pitch the tent almost everywhere with beautiful sunrises and sunsets. Since August 1st, when we were in Angola, we have slept in the tent every night (except for the birthday celebration), as it has been so nice and easy to wild camp or sleep in camps in both Angola and Namibia. 

We also crossed 27,000km in Namibia since the North Cape, and we are now approx. 100km from the border crossing to South Africa. The last country on the journey. It is both wild and exciting at the same time. We are very much looking forward to exploring the country and to visiting our friends in Cape Town when we get that far.